Starting

Setting out

Because timber expands at a far greater rate across the grain rather than in the length it is good practice to lay the floor in the longest direction of the room. It also looks better. If you lay it across the shorter span it tends to look as if you had a larger room and divided it with a new wall. Another thing to consider is the direction of natural light. If possible it is better for the light to shine along the boards rather than across them. Sometimes a trade off is required as these two statements sometimes contradict each other. We suggest to play safe and go for the length of the room choice. If the room has a full length straight wall this is probably the best place to start. This is seldom the case. If you do have a full length wall it will probably not be straight.

     
FIG 1   

Do not worry! If the wall is not straight, set out a start line the width of the boards + the width of the expansion gap minus the depth of the most protruding part of the wall. e.g. Board width is 140mm and the expansion gap is 15mm (140mm + 15mm = 155mm) and the protruding part of the wall is 20mm (155mm - 20mm = 135mm) the start line should be no more than 135mm from the most protruding part of the wall. Some of the infill boards will now fit into place leaving the expansion gap and some will need to be scribed into place (shaped into place). (Fig 1)

Use short lengths of board to space the floor from the wall so that the floor is supported as you fit it together. Lay 3 runs up and down the line and leave for 30 minutes for the glue to set before continuing if you are laying as a floating floor. This forms a solid panel which stops the floor from coming apart when you really get going. Sometimes there may not seem to be an obvious place to start.

     
FIG 2   

     
FIG 3   

For instance there might be a hearth to a fireplace in the way (Fig 2). This really does not matter because where ever you start it is possible to brace off the walls to support the laying of the floor and then work backwards to the walls afterwards.

To reverse lay a secrete fixed floor you will need loose tongues.

If the room is square and the walls are straight then lay 3 runs (as described earlier) and use wedges to hold the floor 15mm away from the walls to allow for the expansion gap. (Fig 3).

Tools and equipment

Trade and professionals - or those who want to be.

Chop saw, Jig saw, Fein cutter, Router, Electric tenon saw, Screw guns, Pistol drill, 4 belt sander, Orbital sander, Porter nailer, Biscuit cutter, Strap clamps, Draw bar, Hand saw, Skil saw, Tape measure, Hammer, Square, pin punch, Chisels, Drill bits, Vacuum cleaner

DIY

Jig saw, New sharp hand saw, T Square, Power drill, Hammer, Pin punch, Tape measure, Strap clamps, Orbital sander, Pencil, Screw drivers, 12mm chisel